(Paperback)
"During the nineteenth century - a time of great technical and cultural change - fashion was a cultivating force in the development of American society and was influenced by one's social status, geographic location, and economic standing. My Likeness Taken is a collection of daguerreotype portraits of men, women, and children taken between 1840 and 1860. Selected from the top collections in the United Sates, each image is analyzed to clarify datable clothing and fashion components. With subjects from among the best-dressed members of society, these portraits - reproduced in full color - reflect the latest fashion developments, trends, and influences." For students of photographic and costume history, this is extraordinary material. Many of these images have never before been published, and Severa's keen analysis adds immeasurably to our understanding of the importance of dress in American society. Photo archivists and colectors, costume curators, social historians, material culturalists, and theater designers will also find My Likeness Taken to be an invaluable resource.
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July 04, 2006: Severa examines daguereotypes of American women and some children and men for what can be learned about American fashion in the 1840s and '50s. Severa is a former curator of costume at the State Historical Society of Wisconsin. That she examines over 250 and has something different to point out about American fashion with each one attests to the variety and bountifulness of the fashion during the short period of the two decades--which is what the author wanted to demonstrate by the daguerreotypes. Women in the earlier 1800s had more fashion choices than they did in the middle and latter nineteenth century. 'In the 1840s the visible model [for women's fashion] was taken, as it had been for centuries, from royalty.' Designers in Paris and other fashion centers quickly picked up on the fashions displayed by queens, princesses, and duchesses in their marriage ceremonies, crownings, and other public appearances. And these trend-setting fashions were quickly picked up by American women in turn. Most of the women in the daguerreotypes are well-to-do, able to keep up with the latest and the finest fashion of the era. In addition to noting and naming parts of the fashions visible in the numerous daguerreotypes, Severa makes comments on such points as materials and unseen features cut off by the frames which most readers would not be aware of. 'The dress is of rich silk, with fitted sleeves, fan front bodice, and full bouffant skirt' is part of her description of the dress of one young woman. The author's enthusiasm for the subject and succinct, informative annotations along with the pictures of actual historical persons make this an especially enjoyable survey of this short but exceptionally rich period of American fashion.