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With multimillion-dollar shops in New York and Washington and coffee bars everywhere, Dean & DeLuca has dominated the movement to upgrade the American palate and is now a household name for top-notch ingredients and culinary style. Dean & DeLuca's 400 recipes draw upon the world's greatest cuisines to provide a cookbook for quality and health-conscious cooks. Line drawings.
With multimillion-dollar shops in New York and Washington and coffee bars everywhere, Dean & DeLuca has dominated the movement to upgrade the American palate and is now a household name for top-notch ingredients and culinary style. Dean & DeLuca's 400 recipes draw upon the world's greatest cuisines to provide a cookbook for quality and health-conscious cooks. Line drawings.
Dean and DeLuca, famous proprietors of the New York City gourmet-food store that bears their names, present themselves as the Thomas Jefferson of what they call the American Gastronomic Revolution, as if it were they who declared our independence from a diet of Mrs. Paul's Fishsticks. But the attitude is largely forgivable, because it's packaged with what is, in fact, a terrific and exhaustive cookbook. Developed by TV's Food Network host Rosengarten, the collection begins with a somewhat self-serving intro that is followed by such chapters as Salads; Soups; Rice, Beans, and Grains; Fish and Shellfish; Meats. There is no dessert section. Chapter introductions offer generalized tips on purchasing, preparing and cooking ingredients. The authors are purists in all things, regardless of the cost in money, time or labor: whole fish is better than fillets; lump charcoal is better than briquettes, but you should really use hardwood, preferably mesquite. Concerning the preparation of steaks, they have contempt for home broilers (not hot enough) but offer a good word for pan-frying in a bit of butter and olive oil. Many of the 400 recipes draw on Asian (Grilled Japanese Eggplant with Orange-Sesame Miso Sauce), Mexican (Ancho- and Chipotle-Rubbed Pork Loin, roasted in a clay pot) and regional American influences (Rack of Cervena with Texas Barbecue Sauce), as well as standard French (Bouillabaisse in Three Courses) and Italian (Roasted Tomato Sauce with Pancetta and Herbs) cooking. Obsessive foodies can follow the recipes to a tee. But even cooks who have not, from childhood, dreamed of raising quail and growing Belgian endive in their backyards will find inspiration for their own experiments. Good Cook main selection; author tour. (Oct.)
More Reviews and RecommendationsDavid Rosengarten is the host of Taste, on the TV Food Network, one of four James Beard Award nominees in 1996 for the best national TV cooking show of the year. The New York Times remarked that with Taste Rosengarten "reconceived the idea of what a cooking show could be. . . . He explores his subjects so thoughtfully that he makes instant experts of his viewers." He has contributed hundreds of recipes to many publications over the last fifteen years, including The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Bon Appetit. His restaurant column, "Specialities de la Maison--New York," appears every month in Gourmet magazine.
Joel Dean and Giorgio DeLuca co-founded Dean & Deluca in 1977 and continue to oversee their expanding empire.
From the Hardcover edition.