Second Avenue Deli Cookbook: Recipes and Memories from Abe Lebewohl's Legendary Kitchen by Sharon Lebewohl, Rena Bulkin, Jack Lebewohl (Foreword by)

From the Publisher

The Second Avenue Deli has been an internationally renowned Gotham landmark for nearly half a century. Over the years, its founder, Abe Lebewohl, provided the best Jewish fare in town, transforming his tiny ten-seat Village eatery into a New York institution.
        
The Second Avenue Deli Cookbook contains more than 160 of Abe Lebewohl's recipes, including all of the Deli's peerless renditions of traditional Jewish dishes: chicken soup with matzo balls, chopped liver, gefilte fish, kasha varnishkes, mushroom barley soup, noodle kugel, potato latkes, blintzes, and many more. These versatile dishes are perfect for any occasion—from holiday dinners to Sunday brunches with friends and family.
        
The late Abe Lebewohl was a great restaurateur in the showman tradition and a well-known and much-loved New York personality. His famous Deli attracted hundreds of celebrity patrons, many of whom have graciously contributed to this cookbook not only personal reminiscences but also recipes, running the gamut from Morley Safer's family brisket to Paul Reiser's formula for the perfect egg cream. A wonderful blend of New York and Jewish history and mouthwatering recipes, The Second Avenue Deli Cookbook provides a delicious taste of nostalgia.

Publishers Weekly

This is a cookbook that will bring a tear to readers' eyes, and not just because it will have them chopping four onions for Chopped Liver. In 1996, Abe Lebewohl, owner of New York's famed Second Avenue Deli, was murdered; now Sharon, Lebewohl's daughter and current deli steward, and food writer Bulkin present recipes from the New York establishment as well as touching and funny anecdotes from the many people who adored him. The famous and less-famous contribute recipes along with their stories: food critic Mimi Sheraton recalls hearing Lebewohl explain matzo ball soup to a Japanese journalist (a monologue that included an overview of the Old Testament) and offers her Favorite Matzo Balls. Alfred Portale, chef and owner at the swanky Gotham Bar and Grill, recalls Lebewohl's generous praise and provides a recipe for Whole Roast Red Snapper with Tomatoes, Lemon and Thyme. Lebewohl, who was such a friend to working people that he once provided free lunches to striking NBC workers for 21 weeks, would appreciate the profile of veteran waitress Diane Kassner, famous for her quips (Customer: How is the stuffed breast of veal served? Diane: On a plate). Recipes from the restaurant itself are traditional Eastern European Jewish fare--e.g., Kreplach and Gefilte Fish. There are also a smattering of such Middle Eastern dishes as Falafel and Tabbouleh and a few concessions to today's lighter eating habits (Turkey Meat Loaf and Broiled Fillet of Sole la Second Avenue). The latter recipes belie a talk Lebewohl once gave on the topic "Is Deli Dying in New York?" where he quipped: "What am I gonna tell you? My food will kill you." (Oct.) Copyright 1999 Cahners Business Information.

Product Details

• ISBN: 037550267X
  
• ISBN-13: 9780375502675
• Format: Hardcover, 256pp
• Publisher: Random House Publishing Group
• Pub. Date: September 1999
• Edition Description: 1 ED
• Edition Number: 1
• Sales Rank: 594,788

• Read an Excerpt

Read an Excerpt

A major star in New York's culinary galaxy, the dynamic Bobby Flay has been garnering awards for Mesa Grill's sassy southwestern fare since 1991. In 1993, he opened Bolo, featuring innovative Spanish cuisine. The author of three cookbooks--Bold American Food, From My Kitchen to Your Table, and Boy Meets Grill--Flay also hosts a cooking show (Hot off the Grill with Bobby Flay) on the Food Network.

I think of the Second Avenue Deli as a comfort zone, especially during the cold winter months. When I'm very stressed--or feel the flu coming on--I jump into a taxi, race over to Tenth Street and Second Avenue, and make the driver wait outside with the meter running while I order matzo ball soup, a turkey sandwich on rye with Russian dressing, and chopped liver to go. I take it all home and eat it in bed watching TV. Then I'm ready to face the world again. It's better than Prozac and TheraFlu combined.

Note: Also check out Mesa Grill pastry chef Wayne Harley Brachman's matzo farfel pancake recipe on page 148.

Bobby Flay'sYellow Corn Pancakes with Smoked Salmon and
Mango-Serrano Crème Fraîche

serves 4

1/2 cup yellow cornmeal
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons honey
1 large egg, beaten
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons milk
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
16 paper-thin slices smoked salmon

mango-serrano crème fraîche

1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
1 roasted serrano pepper, finely diced
1/2 ripe mango, peeled, seeded, and finely diced
1/2 medium red onion, finely diced
Salt
Freshlyground pepper


1. In a mixing bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, salt, and honey. In a separate bowl, combine the egg, milk, and melted butter. Add the dry ingredients from the other bowl, and mix well.
2. Heat a griddle or cast-iron frying pan (use a nonstick pan if you don't have a cast-iron one) over high heat, and drop the batter by spoonfuls to make 4- to 5-inch pancakes. Cook pancakes until brown on both sides, and set aside, stacked, and covered with foil.
3. Combine the crème fraîche, serrano pepper, mango, and red onion in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Place a pancake on each plate, spoon 1 tablespoon crème fraîche over it, and place 4 slices of salmon on top. Roll the pancake as you would a crêpe, and garnish with remaining crème fraîche.


Potato Latkes

Potato latkes are really just potato kugel (see below) in pancake form. For more about their Chanukah connection, see cheese latkes (page 146).

21/2 pounds potatoes, peeled and quartered
2 large onions (use 11/2 cups grated; don't tamp down)
3 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 cup corn oil
1 cup flour
21/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 cups matzo meal
1/2 cup corn oil for frying
Applesauce
Sour cream

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a food processor, fine-grate potatoes (don't liquefy; leave some texture), and strain to eliminate excess liquid. Don't overdo it; just let the water drain out. Fine-grate onions, and mix in a large bowl with potatoes. (If you don't have a food processor, you can grind the potatoes and onions in a meat grinder.)
2. Add eggs, baking powder, 3/4 cup corn oil (most of it cooks out), flour, salt, and pepper; mix well. Fold in matzo meal, making sure that everything is very well blended.
3. Heat 1/2 cup corn oil in a deep skillet. Spoon batter (use a large kitchen spoon) into the pan to create pancakes about 31/2 inches in diameter. Fry on low heat for 3 to 4 minutes until underside is a deep golden brown, turn, and fry for another minute or two. Drain on paper towel. Serve with applesauce and/or sour cream.


Matzo Meal Latkes

Without the grated onion, matzo meal latkes are a little on the bland side. However, you can always take a different, more Sephardic, approach: omit the onion; sprinkle the cooked latkes with a mixture of confectioners' sugar, cinnamon, and finely chopped nuts; and serve them with honey.

1 cup matzo meal
2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons sugar
6 eggs
11/2 cups water
3/4 cup grated onion (optional)
3/4 cup corn oil for frying
Applesauce
Sour cream

1. In a large bowl, combine matzo meal, salt, and sugar. Set aside.
2. Separate egg whites and yolks. Beat egg yolks, and combine with water. Add the yolk mixture to the matzo meal mixture, and let it stand for 30
minutes.
3. Beat egg whites with an electric mixer until they are stiff, and fold them into the matzo meal mixture. Add grated onion.
4. Heat corn oil until it sizzles in a deep skillet. Lower heat, and, using a cooking spoon, spoon batter into the pan, creating thin pancakes 3 to 4 inches in diameter. Fry for several minutes, turning when the pancake is firm and the bottom side is golden brown. Fry for another few minutes until the other side is done. Drain on paper towel. Serve with applesauce and/or sour cream.

Note: Occasionally stir mixture left in the bowl during the process of spooning latkes into the pan.


Drunken Matzo Meal Latkes

Our rum-soaked latkes add sophisticated splash to holiday meals.

Note: For the fresh fruit, you can use any one of the following: apples (peeled, pitted, cored, and finely chopped in a food processor or hand-grated), finely chopped pineapple, blueberries, peaches (peeled and very finely chopped but not grated), or bananas (chopped into 1/2-inch pieces). Or experiment with other fresh fruits and berries.

3 cups fresh fruit
1/2 cup dark rum
1 cup matzo meal
1 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons (3/8 cup) white sugar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
6 eggs
1/2 cup water
3/4 cup corn oil for frying
Confectioners' sugar
Cinnamon

1. Place fruit in a bowl, pour rum over it, mix, and let stand for 50 minutes.
2. In a large bowl, combine matzo meal, salt, and white and brown sugars. Set aside.
3. In medium bowls, separate the egg whites and yolks. Beat the yolks, add water, and mix well. Add the yolk-water mixture to the matzo meal mixture, stir, and let stand for 30 minutes.
4. Beat the egg whites with an electric mixer until they are stiff and form peaks. Fold them into the matzo meal mixture. Add rum-soaked chopped fruit, and stir in.
5. Heat the corn oil in a deep skillet. Lower heat a little bit, and, using a cooking spoon, spoon batter into the pan, creating thin pancakes 3 to 4 inches in diameter. Fry for several minutes, turning carefully with a spatula when the pancake is firm and the bottom side is golden brown. Fry until the other side is done. Drain on paper towel. (Occasionally stir mixture left in the bowl during the process of spooning latkes into the pan.)
6. In a small bowl, mix confectioners' sugar with a bit of cinnamon and, using a sieve or sifter, sprinkle on top of latkes just before serving.

Another version of the above: Substitute Grand Marnier for rum, use blueberries or raspberries for the fruit, and add 1 tablespoon grated orange rind to your batter.


Mad About You star Paul Reiser was born and raised in New York City, where, as a teenager, he haunted Village comedy clubs. In college, summer breaks were spent doing stand-up at places like Catch a Rising Star and The Improv; as a result, he was already well established on the comedy-club circuit by the time he graduated. Paul's first big break came in 1982, when he accompanied a pal to a movie audition; director Barry Levinson unexpectedly asked him to read, then cast him in the movie Diner. Other films followed (Aliens, Beverly Hills Cop II, The Marrying Man, and Bye, Bye Love, among others), as did the TV sitcom My Two Dads (1987-90).

Mad About You is largely based on Reiser's life (like his alter ego, Paul Buchman, he's married, with a baby and an almost-human dog), with further documentation in two best-selling books: Couplehood and Babyhood. A Deli regular when he's in town, Paul has used Second Avenue Deli shopping bags and mugs as archetypal New York props on Mad About You.

My favorite image of Abe is him standing outside the restaurant, serving complimentary "tastes" of chopped liver to the people waiting on line to come in. And while taking care of them, he would also oversee the loading and unloading of several Second Avenue Deli vans that were preparing to deliver more food to yet more about-to-be-happy customers all across town. He would step into traffic (in his shirtsleeves--I don't know if I ever saw the man wear a coat) and proceed to guide the vans safely on their way, halting and directing traffic in four directions with effortless skill and good cheer. It was as if all the wonderful, nurturing chaos of his kitchen was spilling out onto the street, on its way to enveloping the entire city in a warm blanket of pastrami and love.

Paul Reiser's Fourteenth Street Egg Cream

serves 1

Step one: Play basketball, and get real sweaty. Like rosy-cheeked, out-of-breath sweaty.
Step two: Go home.
Step three: Take a glass (a glass glass, not a plastic glass), and pour in a bunch of Fox's U-Bet chocolate syrup.* (It doesn't matter how much.)
Step four: Pour in some seltzer. (It doesn't matter how much.)
Step five: Add a little milk. (It doesn't matter how much, but too little is better than too much.)
Step six: Get a metal spoon. Now this is the only important part of the whole thing: stir vigorously and increasingly quickly, until your wrist is a blur, and the spoon is actually moving vertically. You should hear a very strong, rapid clanking of metal on glass.
Step seven: When the ferocious whirlpool has subsided, drink the egg cream very fast--in fact, a little faster than is reasonably healthy.
Step eight: Emit a long sigh, stressing the letters a and h.
Step nine: Go out and play basketball some more.

*Although purists would disagree, I say Hershey's chocolate syrup is just as good.