Read an Excerpt
Melons for the Passionate Grower
A Garden of
Delights
Entering the melon patch is like walking into a candy store. It's the dessert
course, only better. Easy to grow, melons gratify instantly, producing luscious
fruit in one season. The taste of melons at their peak, oozing honey, is
incomparable, as is the air, redolent with muskmelon, on an August night.
The Christmas, an heirloom or old-fashioned melon, was my first melon love.
For weeks I had waited for the fruit to ripen, and one morning it was ready,
lolling in the garden like some outlandish hot air balloon, its hard rind
covered with vivid yellow and green streaks. I dropped to my knees and cut it
open to taste its delightful green flesh. Since then I've formed passionate
relationships with a number of other melons. I'm devoted to Cob, Fordhook Gem,
Petit Gris de Rennes, Prescott Fond Blanc, Snake... and the list goes on.
In May or June, scores of melon plants spring up in my garden, blanketed by
tents of spun polyester cloth atop black plastic mulch. They are protected from
the elements by diatomaceous earth (an organic pest control), a spritz, scores
of heirloom BT (bacillus thuringiensis), and TLC (tender loving care). What more
can I do but pray for sun? After the floodwaters of June recede and the first
hatch of insect pests has passed, I remove their cocoons and let the melons
sprawl, at ease, until the garden becomes a verdant sea of vines bearing fruit.
The green bowling balls that pass for watermelons or the melons posing as
cantaloupes in grocery stores across America don't begin to describe the world
of melons. We've all seen melons that are netted, wrinkled, striped, or ribbed;
but there are melons with warts, freckles, and stars; melons that look like
snakes or bananas; others that smell or taste like pineapple, mango, peach, or
perfume. These are extraordinary heirlooms.
Heirloom fruits and vegetables are treasures from the past, carefully tended
and preserved by generations of farmers and gardeners. They are beloved for
their looks and their taste. I can't count the number of times someone has
tasted one of my melons for the first time and said, "This brings back memories
of my childhood," or "I'm in ecstasy." At a taste test of my melons at the Union
Square Greenmarket, there was almost a stampede. Until they tasted heirlooms,
the crowd didn't know what they were missing. But the delight of melons that
taste sublime is only one reason to grow heirloom fruits and vegetables. The
other is because we need their germplasm. It's their genes that will help us
fend off the potato famines and corn blights of the future. Without their
genetic diversity, we will be prey to ever-more virulent pests and diseases.
Unfortunately, countless heirloom varieties are threatened with extinction,
and thousands have already been lost. During the consolidation within the seed
industry over the past twenty-five years, Mom and Pop operations were gobbled up
by giants. A polite term for what happened is deaccessioning, and like paintings
removed from galleries in museums to make room for new acquisitions, heirloom
fruits and vegetables -- also things of beauty -- were sent to dry dock and
oblivion, leaving only faint tracings of their integrity behind.
Filling the void left by heirlooms' departure was easy: Industry makes far
more money from hybrids. The bottom line is that first-generation (F1) hybrids
are proprietary inbreds that yield unreliable seed. Heirloom seed, on the other
hand, breeds true, producing offspring like its parents. You're taking potluck
when you save seeds from hybrids, and you don't want to rely on chance, you need
to ante up for fresh seed. Clever these seed companies: disposable seeds create
dependency and repeat business.
The industry promotes hybrids whether they're genuinely better or not. When
it comes to melons, even plant breeders admit that hybrids have nothing over
heirlooms. They're not bigger, better, or more improved. The development of
seedless, or triploid, watermelon seems to be the major "advantage." But
breeding the life out of a melon is not exactly a desirable trait.
While supermarkets devote whole aisles to hybrids, heirloom varieties are
hard to find, and they are becoming scarcer by the day. Still, much remains of
our vanishing vegetable heritage, and through the largesse of Kent Whealy and
the Seed Savers Exchange, one can plant a garden where the extraordinary is
ordinary. Kent gives us the seeds of special things to eat, the seeds of
yesteryear. If we sow and grow those seeds, we are nourished; and if in the end
we harvest more seed, we ensure next year's bounty. This is the natural history
of agriculture, the way our grandparents and great-grandparents fed themselves.
But it's not the way we commonly feed ourselves today.
Kent and his wife, Diane, have been working together for twenty-five years to
help home gardeners and orchardists keep heirlooms alive. The Seed Savers
Exchange, in Decorah, Iowa, is a nonprofit membership organization that collects
heirloom seeds, maintains and grows them out in preservation gardens, and
distributes the seed to others. Most of these old-time varieties are not native
to North America, but became part of our common heritage when immigrants brought
the seeds here, hidden in their suitcases or sewn into their dresses or
hatbands. These precious portable possessions spelled breakfast, lunch, or
dinner and the comforts of home in an uncertain New World.
Kent Whealy gave me the chance to play a small part in agricultural history
when he sent me two cardboard boxes of melon seed by overnight mail. Opening
them, I realized I had in my hands a gift of vast magnitude, an irreplaceable
wonder, the seeds of yesterday. Kent had only a few seeds of some varieties
left, and he wouldn't have given them to me if he felt I couldn't handle them.
Still, I was afraid something would go wrong and even had a nightmare about the
theft of plants from my garden. I've since regained my composure and harvested
hundreds of melons from Kent's seed. This book attempts to portray them in all
their glory